Machu Picchu the Luxetarian Way (In 36 Hours)

Machu Picchu wasn’t our whole trip. It was one stop on a much longer run through South America, which ruled out the Inca Trail hike a lot of people build their visit around.

But we didn’t want to make the opposite mistake either — the flying visit. I mean, we hadn’t come all the way to Peru, acclimatized to high altitude, and spent a fortune on a train ticket to snag one photograph for the ‘gram, that too weather permitting. No. We came for the otherworldliness of a 15th-century citadel, for the panoramic views that take your breath away, and to take roughly a million pictures we could live inside again years later.

So we needed an itinerary built for a short visit that wouldn’t feel like one.

Here’s what we did: the 9am Hiram Bingham up from Sacred Valley, Circuit 2 that same afternoon, one night at the Sanctuary Lodge, a second circuit at 8am the next morning, and the 1:37pm Vistadome back. Thirty-six hours, two circuits, and enough time to properly be there.

We could have saved a ton of money and probably booked an even nicer property in Aguas Calientes but after doing the research we decided we did not want to waste travel time (~30 mins each way) and deal with chaotic bus rides. In retrospect, we made the right decision for our time constrained visit.

Why two circuits, not one

There is far more here than one walk can show you. That’s the whole reason the circuits exist, each one frames the citadel differently. Some pull you back for the panoramic view everyone arrives wanting. Others bring you down among the terraces and doorways, where the engineering becomes the point and you start noticing how impossibly this thing was built. Pick two that complement each other and you get both the awe and the detail.

We’d planned exactly that: the classic, most popular Circuit 2 on our first afternoon, then the thrilling Huayna Picchu the next morning.

Then it quite literally rained on our parade. The Huayna Picchu hike closed for landslide risk, and the arduous climb we’d spent weeks training for was simply off. These things are more common than you think, especially if you travel during the rainy season or shoulder seasons, so please come prepared with plan B.

We were reassigned to another circuit (1B – Upper Terrace Route), and it turned out to be no consolation prize at all. A different part of the site, views every bit as extraordinary, and things we’d never have seen from the trail we’d booked.

It also gave us something we hadn’t thought to plan for. Our afternoon on Circuit 2 was warm and clear, the ruins sharp and golden. The next morning the same site was half-swallowed in cloud and light rain, then revealed itself in pieces as the sun climbed. Same stones. Different experiences and views.

If you book one circuit and the weather has other ideas, that’s your Machu Picchu. Book two, on two different days, and you’ve bought yourself insurance and a better trip.

Pro Tip: Book everything the moment it becomes available. Machu Picchu entry tickets, the Hiram Bingham, and the Sanctuary Lodge especially. All three sell out. This is not a destination that rewards spontaneity.

And go with a guide. We’re normally happy to wander on our own, but Machu Picchu without context is a very beautiful pile of rocks. With a good guide it becomes architecture, astronomy, agriculture, and engineering. Immeasurably richer. Our guide was included on the first circuit through Belmond Bellini. The second time around we did wander on our own.

The Hiram Bingham beat expectations we’d already set high

Let’s be clear that we didn’t stumble into this one. We’d done the research, concluded fairly quickly that the Hiram Bingham was not the place to economize (not that we ever do), and booked it fully expecting a very good time.

It was considerably better than that! A lovely problem to have, and a difficult one to write about without sounding like a sponsored post. So we’ll simply tell you what happens.

We waited in a VIP lounge at the station, which sits right at the entrance to Rio Sagrado — another Belmond property in Peru, and yes, we’ll be reviewing that one too. We were staying there after Machu Picchu, so we left most of our luggage behind and took only what we needed for the night. After some waiting, and a good deal of photographing the surroundings, we boarded something closer to a 1920s club car than a train. Polished wood, white linen, a live band, an open bar, and a carriage full of people who have all decided this counts as an occasion. Which it does.

Then, after some merriment around the bar and a few rounds of live music that will make you want to dance, lunch is called. And it’s a multi-course fine dining service.

We’d sent our usual brief ahead along with preferences. By now we’d worked up a genuine appetite, what with all the fun and frolic. But we’ll admit we kept our expectations modest on the food specifically, because this was, after all, a train.

They smashed them. The kitchen didn’t merely accommodate the brief, they prepared an exquisite feast. It remains one of the best meals we ate anywhere in Peru, and we ate very well in Peru.

We were also celebrating a birthday, which we’d mentioned when we booked. So of course, they made a cake. A proper one, entirely eggless, and I still don’t know exactly what flavor it was but it melted in your mouth. The band serenaded our table with a Peruvian style Happy Birthday, which is a considerable upgrade on the version you know. There was a small gift, on top of the Hiram Bingham suede backpacks and water bottles every guest receives. Nice touch and very useful for the hike!

Kudos to the staff on the train for handling the volume of people well. They were working extra hard to ensure all guests are served on time with drinks and food. The restroom on the train was so very beautiful and clean.

What the premium actually buys you

This is the part worth being clear-eyed about, because both the train and the lodge are expensive.

You’re not paying for the ruins. Everyone sees the same ruins. You’re paying for everything around them to stop being work:

• No bus queues. These are long, and they are in the sun/rain.
• Entry and a guide for one circuit are included with your Hiram Bingham ticket.
• Luggage moves without you. It simply appears where it should.
• A private VIP waiting area at the station, with amenities.
• Restrooms stop being a logistical concern — a genuine issue at Machu Picchu, and one nobody mentions until they’re up there.

At altitude, after a 4am start, with weather doing whatever it likes, “effortless” turns out to be worth a great deal. It’s worth noting that Belmond Bellini club benefits made the choice easier for us. They included one time entrance tickets to Machu Picchu with a guide, one way bus transport from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, afternoon tea at Sanctuary lodge, and property credit at Sanctuary lodge. Before you book, you should find a travel advisor that is designated as Belmond Bellini.

One important note about the included Machu Picchu tickets. The popular circuit (Circuit 2 – Classic Route) sells out fast and Belmond’s Hiram Bingham team books tickets a little too close to the day of travel. So, to avoid disappointment, we booked that circuit as soon as the tickets were released through the official ticketing portal and had Belmond refund the cost of tickets post our trip. This was easy enough to do but would be nice if Belmond was able to guarantee whichever circuit you want, especially if you’ve booked your train ticket early.

DO NOT book Machu Picchu tickets through agents or 3rd party websites as tickets are linked to your passport. Book only through the official booking portal. This helps avoid markups and invalid tickets that’ll get your entry denied.

Sanctuary Lodge: location, and then everything else

There is exactly one hotel at the top, and this is it. You can see Machu Picchu from parts of the property and the property from the upper terraces of Machu Picchu. You’re still there when the crowds leave at closing, and ahead of them when the gates open in the morning. That’s the whole reason to book it.

The rooms are small and not remotely modern. We want to be honest about that, because at this price some people will expect a suite with grand amenities. You won’t get that. What you get instead is the sense of being an explorer billeted at a research station and we mean that as praise. The building has real history, and the charm is the point. But also, for us the full board experience just made sense. We did not need to worry about food or drink.

The property is small, so walk it properly: the gardens are full of hummingbirds, and they’re a different place in the evening than in the morning. Do both.

The staff were the best kind of attentive. Water, raincoats, umbrellas, anything at all. No request too small, none of it made to feel like a favor. The lodge can get crowded with guests that are staying as well as with Hiram Bingham guests who are mostly there for afternoon tea and relaxation.

Pro Tip: We received Belmond Bellini Club benefits through our travel advisor — worth asking about before you book any Belmond property or experience, because the inclusions can genuinely add up. If you don’t have a Belmond Bellini TA yet, please reach out and we’ll connect you to ours.

The food

The Sanctuary Lodge culinary team fed us well. We had our meals included as we booked full board. On check in day we also had Afternoon Tea through Hiram Bingham tickets, it was nice to have refreshments post hike but we were glad we kept it light as we came back to the restaurant for dinner that night. There was plenty of choice for vegetarians and vegans on the menu, and the drink pairings were just as considered. We enjoyed some much needed medicinal Muña tea (Andean green tea) after dinner and it helped us sleep like babies.

We ate lunch at Sanctuary Lodge before checking out, on the theory that we had no idea what the Vistadome would offer. It worked out perfectly — we weren’t hungry again until we were back down. The staff had helped book our bus tickets back to Aguas Calientes. On the day, they were there to help us with boarding the bus (no line) and with luggage. A Belmond team member was with us until we got to the Vistadome train.

The Vistadome home

Completely different energy, and honestly delightful. The staff who checked your ticket reappear in costume to dance, and there’s a small fashion show for locally made alpaca goods that you can buy on board. It’s unabashedly touristy and we enjoyed every minute. The journey goes quickly. The only minor negative was a lack of soap in the restroom. Staff corrected the problem as soon as possible which was much appreciated.

Would we do it again exactly this way?

Yes, though next time we’re hoping for Huayna Picchu.

Thirty-six hours is enough if you structure it properly. Two circuits on two days, a guide, a night at the top, and a train that treats the journey as part of the trip rather than the price of one.

None of this was sponsored. We booked and paid for all of it ourselves.

We’ve skipped a detailed breakdown of the circuits on purpose — they change often, and there are excellent guides and vlogs covering them already. But if you have questions about booking any of this, or how the dietary side worked, leave a comment below and we’ll help however we can.